February 22 2010

February 22 2010

Last week Spanish culinary wizard, Ferran Adrià announced he will be closing his world famous restaurant El Bulli, due to the massive monetary loss it was incurring and instead be opening a culinary institute for ‘kicking around ideas and experimenting.’ ElBulli is considered to be the worlds greatest restaurant. Chefs from around the world jump at the chance to work under the great Ferran. Diners need to book a year in advance and the waiting list for reservations has been at 3000 for one of twelve tables.
What makes ElBulli so special is its desire to immerse the diner in a total experience. The kitchen is a laboratory for innovation where chefs work at creating and developing dishes that provoke, surprise and delight the diner– a “cappuccino” of guacamole, liquid ravioli: caviar made from Olive oil that is pure liquid; pine cone mousse; ravioli of cuttlefish wrapped around coconut milk; and Parmesan snow. Nothing is what it seems. Even utensils and tableware are specifically designed and produced for each dish.

Clockwise from top: Mojito sticks, a liquid olive, Edible flower carpaccio, Coral
chocolate with raspberry powder
The restaurant will close for good in December 2011. With Ferran already referred to as the Dean, the ElBulli academy or school seems the perfect progression for an ElBulli brand that espouses creativity and experimenting at its heart. One can imagine a kind of Bauhaus for cuisine, hopefully with the odd meal still served every now again.
January 19 2010
Just today, as I was standing over plate of ‘gourmet’ sandwiches with my client trying to make a choice (chunky chicken? salami with sundried tomatoes? turkey and bacon? grilled veggie and goat cheese? some kind of tuna concoction?), my client casually asked– “are you a vegetarian?” I found that my answer about what/how I eat is not so simple. I eat meat, so I’m not a vegetarian, but I’ve seen Food Inc. recently, and I’ve read articles about how meat producers are injecting cows with e-coli killing vaccinations on their way to the slaughter house, and I have to admit that I’m freaked out about meat. Perhaps even about what to eat overall, as our vegetables and grains aren’t being treated so well either. I could see the look of horror on my client’s face as I highlighted a few Food Inc. stories, and I wanted to brush off the conversation with an easy “ah well…what can you do…” Instead, I may open this book Food Rules, An eaters manual by Michael Pollan and see if there really is a simple way to eat well. I don’t mean a balanced diet, I mean a non-toxic one.
January 14 2010
Wafles & Dinges, Rickshaw Dumplings, Schnitzel & Things – there is a new food movement going on that I like. A lot. Since 2009 there has been an increase in gourmet food trucks circulating around the city and my neighborhood in Brooklyn.
Not only is this a brilliant business idea for chefs with existing restaurants in the city – tapping into the hungry lunch crowd on Wall Street or DUMBO, raising their profile with new customers – but for those without restaurant space it’s a fresh and economical business plan (low overhead and no crazy real estate costs).
For the consumer like me, it is a big win. I never eat lunch at a restaurant (too much time, too expensive). I always get food to go (and sadly eat at my desk), get bored of my staple favorites in my neighborhood and love trying new things. Mystery-meat kebabs and soggy water dogs look out!